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smokingbootWe took a day out to Port Lympne, where the enclosures were so huge and overgrown, you were in danger of seeing nothing. If beasties have to be kept anywhere then that's best; they breed rare animals to be released back into the wild. It felt good to know that.
And then, its fur against the glass, a clouded leopard passed us close as my hand in front of me, the magical made real. It was one of the most supremely beautiful sights of my life, safari and all. Awed we stared at it, just as the bad news about the delayed house sale came through.
We went to Whitstable and walked the sands, then decided to get the hell out of Dodge.
Friends had recommended Ghent. I wasn't convinced because there are places I specifically want to visit in Belgium in pursuit of Aht and Eeeevil. Ostend is one, Liege is another, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Brussels yet another. Not wanting to drive all over Belgium to satisfy my curiousity, my husband demurred most unreasonably. Ghent would be relaxing, our friends loved Ghent. Also, it had a castle.
Quite an excellent castle as it turned out. We were surrounded by charm, beer, and blood spattered history. Poor old St Bavo's cathedral was crammed full of tourists, any sense of reverence drowned in the crowds. It hold Jan and Hubert Van Eyk's strange masterpiece, Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. Why is this thing so revered?
It's great art I suppose, but it's full of bizarre minutiae that give you the impression it's holding a mystery; I half expect it to be featured on the Discovery Channel. It is basically a collection of the righteous having a sort of piety party on a lawn, angels, martyrs, judges etc all gathered round adoring this sheep which stands there glowing, even as blood pours out of it, and the Dove of the Holy Spirit/God shines above in a light that again, seems to glow. I mean, I'm aware of the metaphorical meanings, but it's still...odd. The city beyond is Ghent itself looking princely. There are palm trees and sunbeams and an angel wearing a sapphire that shows the reflection of a window in the cathedral. There are panels showing a somewhat wrecked Adam and Eve, the latter carrying some citrus fruit rare at the time. The whole thing is just weird, but it's hard to pinpoint exactly why.
St Michael's was an easier church to enjoy. It was built by the guilds of the city, with particular emphasis on the Brewer's Guild who apparently lacked the funds to finish off building the tower. If the people wanted the tower, they would have to buy more beer, or so said the guild. In fact, the tower was never built, fortunate as the whole thing would then have overbalanced and fallen into the river, a soggy version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. As delightful to me was the discovery of the Guild of St George, who still practise the art of crossbow shooting... Understandably,as it's a very old town and a bullet never staked a vampire.
And that was it for culture. Principally we spent our time wandering round, or on the river, or in cafes sampling beer and eating our body weight in food.
We came back far too soon.
And then, its fur against the glass, a clouded leopard passed us close as my hand in front of me, the magical made real. It was one of the most supremely beautiful sights of my life, safari and all. Awed we stared at it, just as the bad news about the delayed house sale came through.
We went to Whitstable and walked the sands, then decided to get the hell out of Dodge.
Friends had recommended Ghent. I wasn't convinced because there are places I specifically want to visit in Belgium in pursuit of Aht and Eeeevil. Ostend is one, Liege is another, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Brussels yet another. Not wanting to drive all over Belgium to satisfy my curiousity, my husband demurred most unreasonably. Ghent would be relaxing, our friends loved Ghent. Also, it had a castle.
Quite an excellent castle as it turned out. We were surrounded by charm, beer, and blood spattered history. Poor old St Bavo's cathedral was crammed full of tourists, any sense of reverence drowned in the crowds. It hold Jan and Hubert Van Eyk's strange masterpiece, Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. Why is this thing so revered?
It's great art I suppose, but it's full of bizarre minutiae that give you the impression it's holding a mystery; I half expect it to be featured on the Discovery Channel. It is basically a collection of the righteous having a sort of piety party on a lawn, angels, martyrs, judges etc all gathered round adoring this sheep which stands there glowing, even as blood pours out of it, and the Dove of the Holy Spirit/God shines above in a light that again, seems to glow. I mean, I'm aware of the metaphorical meanings, but it's still...odd. The city beyond is Ghent itself looking princely. There are palm trees and sunbeams and an angel wearing a sapphire that shows the reflection of a window in the cathedral. There are panels showing a somewhat wrecked Adam and Eve, the latter carrying some citrus fruit rare at the time. The whole thing is just weird, but it's hard to pinpoint exactly why.
St Michael's was an easier church to enjoy. It was built by the guilds of the city, with particular emphasis on the Brewer's Guild who apparently lacked the funds to finish off building the tower. If the people wanted the tower, they would have to buy more beer, or so said the guild. In fact, the tower was never built, fortunate as the whole thing would then have overbalanced and fallen into the river, a soggy version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. As delightful to me was the discovery of the Guild of St George, who still practise the art of crossbow shooting... Understandably,as it's a very old town and a bullet never staked a vampire.
And that was it for culture. Principally we spent our time wandering round, or on the river, or in cafes sampling beer and eating our body weight in food.
We came back far too soon.
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